Place Screen

The Screen Printing Process

Here is something I wrote for all of those that continue to ask me how to screen print. It's a bit of a long read, but it's informative enough to give you a good idea of exactly what takes place. It's not completely detailed out (there are many small steps missing) but it is the key elements in screen printing.

1. Artwork. The artwork you start art with is VERY important. If you have jagged or grainy artwork, you will reproduce this. There are many art services on the internet that will supply you will screen printing artwork. If you fax them a logo, they can redraw it for you and send you a file in which you can use for the making of screens.

You can also create (or recreate) artwork yourself.   It is imperative to use a vector art program like Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw or Macromedia FreeHand. Using these programs will ensure that you will have high quality artwork in the end. Photoshop can be used as well, but this is more for full color printing, etc., which is not good to start out with since there are special techniques to master before moving into this realm.

2. Film Positives. When you have artwork that is ready to print, you can print your artwork out on a clear film instead of paper.  There are different types of paper for inkjet and laserjet printers, so be sure you select the right type. For every color you have, you will print it out as a black plate on a separate film. For example, if you have a logo that is Red & Black, you would separate the two colors from themselves and print each out, changing the red to black and printing and then printing the black. Each of these would be printed on their own film.

This is simply known as art separations, or “seps”. If the colors are touching in the final version of the logo, then you need to have what is called trap or choke. Basically, it's an overlapping of the artwork by a small margin. This small margin is just enough so you can register the colors so there is no space between them. On the films, you will also place registration marks. These marks usually are a circle with a verticle and horizontal line passing through it. These marks will be on the same spot on each film. This will help you line up the art later so the images match up perfectly.

3. Screen Making. When screen printing began it was called silk screening. The reason for this is, the screens used to be made from silk. Since this is no longer the case (now they are made from polyester), the name changed. A screen is simply a wooden or metal frame that has a fine mesh stretched over and attached to it. This mesh has different counts. Some examples would be 83, 110, 125, 140, 330 and on and various numbers in between. The lower the mesh count, the less detail you can print and the thicker the ink lays down. So it is an artform to say the least in dealing with correct mesh.

The actual process of screen making is quite simple, just time consuming. Capillary film is stilled used but the most common technique is using a light sensitive liquid emulsion. Emulsion can be used under a yellow light so that you still can see what you are doing, but the UV light is filtered out so as not to effect the emulsion. A scoop coater is needed. You pour emulsion into the scoop coater and place it on a vertical screen. Pressing up against the screen and pulling up, you will lay a thin layer of emulsion on the outside of the screen. Turn the screen around and do the same for the inside of the screen. Turn it back around and do it once more on the outside.

Once the emulsion dries, you can "expose" the screen. You need a good light source for this process. We have an exposure unit that can expose 20" x 24" screen. It has a halogen light along with 2 black lights to help diffuse (or even out) the light. The exposure unit is basically a box with a glass top and a lid that has a black matte and a vacuum frame. The light source would be contained in this box.  Some “do it yourself” printers that work from home actually use the sun for this process.  It’s very time consuming, but it works!

To expose a screen, taking the film positive you created and place it on the glass top with the right reading being up. Then take the dried screen and place it on the glass top with the film positive under it. The screen mesh will be touching the film positive. When you close the lid, there is a vacuum frame that will suck all of the extra air out of the frame. This vacuum frame will pull the matte close to the screen frame. This is essential for a crisp image to be burned into the screen mesh.

At this point, the length of time will be dependent on your emulsion and light source. This is something you can talk to your emulsion supplier about. It’s really a matter of testing. Most problems occur in this stage, so it is critical that you understand this process through testing, training and trial and error. The better you are in this area, the better your prints will be.

Once the image is exposed into your emulsion, you can take the screen to a washout booth. Lightly spray both sides of the screen with water. I garden hose with a sprayer on the end works well for this procedure. You do not want a lot of pressure but you do want some. After waiting for a couple of minutes, you can go back and begin spraying your screen with water. Spray on the outside of the frame, or the side that was touching the film. The inside will naturally be softer because the light had to shine through the emulsion to get to that side. As you spray down the screen, you will see the image on your screen. What happened is, wherever there was black on your film, the light did not shine through. Since the light could not expose the emulsion, it remained water solulable. Wherever the light shine through the emulsion, it hardened and will not wash away. Let the screen(s) dry.

4. Printing Press. Choosing a printing press isn’t nearly as critical, although you are looking for a quality press. To be honest, you may want to stay away from all-in-one units and similar machines. They are a waste of money. Even though you can print just as good of a print with these machines, they are costly and they slow your process down. When I started, I was told a 4 color 4 station press is just about all I needed. They were right. Very rarely did I ever need to print anything more than a 4 color design. Later, as I grew, I purchased more machines that allowed for more colors. But the first 5 years of my business, I believe I had 1 6 color job and 1 5 color job. So it wasn’t critical for me to spend more money on a 6 color machine. What you are looking for in a press is a solid frame, micro registration and rotating platens. Outside of this, you don’t need much more than that.  Obviously, a auto-press is what we use now (and is preferred), but these can run anywhere from $50,000 - $100,000 or even more.

5. Conveyer dryer and flash unit. To actually cure the ink, you need a heat source to reach 320 degrees for your ink. If you can reach 320 degrees in 1 second, it’s cured. If it’s 10 seconds, it’s cured. As long as it reaches 320 degrees, you are good. A flash unit is a unit that you place over your platen (arm that you place the shirt on). This flash unit is meant to flash the ink just long enough where it is not cured and it is not wet. This will allow you to print colors on top of colors if needed, and you will need it! Many people use these units to cure their shirts. This is not wise. If you have a flash unit over a platen, it has to reach 320 degrees to cure the ink. This heat will eventually warp your platens, causing printing problems in the long run. It will also heat your platen up enough that when you put another shirt on it and print, it will semi cure the ink in your screens, causing a clogging and poor printing. So buy the flash unit and use it for it’s intended purpose, to flash the ink, if you have to. If I print a single color on a shirt, I will not use a flash unit at all. If it is white printing, then I will. The reason for this is, you would print white on a shirt, flash it, then when the shirt comes back around to you, it needs a second print. This gives you a good vibrant white. If you are printing a color on a dark shirt, you would also print a white underbase, flash it, then print an exact image with a different screen over top of it with the color you need.

The conveyer dryer is needed to increase your production. When you finish printing a shirt, you pull it off of your platen and place it on the conveyer dryer. Basically, it’s a dryer that has a belt on it that goes through a tunnel of heat. When it comes out the other side, it is cured. There are temperature strips that you can place on the shirt to run through the dryer and make sure the heat and speed setting are correct. Raytek also makes a heat gun that when the shirt comes out, you point the laser beam at the ink and it will give you a temperature reading. Remember, 320 is the magic number!

6. Inks and miscellaneous. The ink you will use is a Plastisol ink. There are so many manufacturers and types of inks, it’s good to find one and stick with them. I can give you suggestions of what I feel are good, but it’s all up to you in the end. You will also need squeegees. A squeegee is basically a handle with a rubber blade on the end. This blade is what you use to push or pull the ink through the screen and onto the shirt. There are so many miscellaneous items that it would be good to talk to a supplier about what you need to get started.

7. Screen prep and registration. Your scoop coater cannot reach all areas of the screen, so you want to tape out the areas that did not have emulsion. There are special tapes made to do this, but packing tape works well if you remove it right away when you are finished. Simply tape the inside and outside of the screens wherever the emulsion did not cover. If you have a one color design, placing the screen on your press is quite simple. If you have more than one color, this is where the registration marks are needed. After placing your first screen on the press, you would do a test print. Place some ink on the screen and rest a squeegee on the frame close to the head. Pull the ink across the screen and onto the shirt. Next, take your second screen and place them on the next head. Align the registration marks on the screen to the marks on the print you made. Once in place, you can lock them in and adjust the micro registrations if necessary. Once locked in, do a test print. If everything is registered, you can tape up the registration marks on your screen and you are ready to print.

8. Your first print. You will be working upside down when you print t-shirts. The collar will be closest to you. After placing the shirt on the platen, pull your screen down. One thing I did not mention was off-contact. If you look between the shirt and the platen, you should have a gap. This is called your off-contact. You need about 1/8” between the screen and the platen. This will give you just enough room to make a print and allow for the screen to snap away from the shirt. This gives you a clean print. Some people will push their squeegee and others will pull. Whatever is comfortable to you is best for you. Personally, I’ve always pulled my squeegee. This means that when I pull down my screen, I grab my squeegee and pull the ink towards me. You want to have the sqeegee at an angle, but not too much. A 70 - 80 degree angle is good. If you go too much of an angle, you will get a heavy print and it won’t look very good. If the angle is a 90 degree, then you won’t get the proper pressure, giving you a light print. The good thing is, if the first print does not work out for you, you can print it again, right over top of it. The registration of the machine will be the same so even if you rotated the press and came back to it, it would still print good.

As with anything, practice is what is needed. Make sure that whatever you do that works, keep it consistent. A firm grip on the squeegee, a consistent angle and a quick stroke will give you a good print. When you find that print, keep it consistent. Good luck!

I know that throughout this article I left out smaller details of the process, but I figured this was long enough.  If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at 480.678.4488 during business hours.

-Michael D’Elena

Owner/President

Reckless T-shirts

Need screen printing? Check us out at: http://www.recklesstshirts.com or http://www.recklessts.com

About the Author

 

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Zilla Fresh Air Screen Cover with Door - 12 in. x 24 in. $12.99 Hinged Door screen covers allow for easy feeding access to your reptile terrarium. Door opens easily and secures tightly to keep your reptiles in and unwanted outsiders out. Metal screen holds up to scratching and climbing from even the largest reptile pets, while the durable construction maintains shape even under the intense temperatures created by reptile heating and lighting systems.

Zilla Fresh Air Screen Cover with Door - 12 in. x 30 in. $14.99 Hinged Door screen covers allow for easy feeding access to your reptile terrarium. Door opens easily and secures tightly to keep your reptiles in and unwanted outsiders out. Metal screen holds up to scratching and climbing from even the largest reptile pets, while the durable construction maintains shape even under the intense temperatures created by reptile heating and lighting systems.

Zilla Fresh Air Screen Cover with Door - 12 in. x 36 in. $15.99 Hinged Door screen covers allow for easy feeding access to your reptile terrarium. Door opens easily and secures tightly to keep your reptiles in and unwanted outsiders out. Metal screen holds up to scratching and climbing from even the largest reptile pets, while the durable construction maintains shape even under the intense temperatures created by reptile heating and lighting systems.

Repti Breeze Aluminum Screen Cage - 18 in. x 18 in. x 36 in. $79.99 Quick setup, full-circulation aluminum screen cages are great for chameleons, anoles and other arboreal lizards. Large front and bottom doors provide easy access to pets and for cleaning. Assembles quickly with just a screwdriver. Corrosion-resistant construction.

Repti Breeze Aluminum Screen Cage - 24 in. x 24 in. x 48 in. $109.99 Quick setup, full-circulation aluminum screen cages are great for chameleons, anoles and other arboreal lizards. Large front and bottom doors provide easy access to pets and for cleaning. Assembles quickly with just a screwdriver. Corrosion-resistant construction.

Forest Tortoise Set Up - Excludes Tank and Screen Lid $135.08 The perfect selection of essentials and accessories for your Forest Tortoise. Recommended for Red and Yellow Foot Tortoises, Elongated Tortoises, and Asian and American Box Turtles. Kit includes 36" Fluorescent Reflector Deluxe 36" Repti Sun 5.0 UVB 310 Fluorescent Lamp 2, 8.5 in. Silver Heat and Light Reflector Domes with ceramic sockets Repti Basking Spot Lamp - 75W Nightlight Red Lamp - 40W Liquid Crystal Thermometer Natural Forest Tortoise Food - 15 oz. Reptisafe Water Conditioner - 8.75 oz. Turtle Hut - Giant - 10.75"x10.5"x5.5" Large Feeding Dish - 9"x7"x1" Douglas Fir Bark Reptile Bedding - 25 qt.

Grass Land Tortoise Set Up - Excludes Tank and Screen Lid $141.98 The perfect selection of essentials and accessories for your Grass Land Tortoise. Recommended for Russian, Greek, Sulcata, Leopard and Pancake Tortoises. Kit Includes 36" Fluorescent Reflector Deluxe 36 in. Repti Sun 10.0 High Output UVB Lamp 2, 8.5 in. Silver Heat and Light Reflector Domes with ceramic sockets Repti Basking Spot Lamp - 100W Heat - Glo Infrared Spot Lamp - 50W Liquid Crystal Thermometer ReptiSafe Water Conditioner - 8.75 oz. Turtle Hut - Giant - 10.75"x10.5"x5.5" Natural Grassland Tortoise Food - 15 oz. Large Feeding Dish - 9"x7"x1" Douglas Fir Bark Reptile Bedding - 25 qt.

Repitat 5 Flat Back Hex Habitat $25.18 The ideal budget-friendly cage for your reptile or small pet. Durable acrylic construction is topped by a heavy-duty metal screen. 5 gallons

Protective Pump Enclosure - 12 in. x 18 in. $99.99 Keep your pump running longer, plus avoid damage with this protective pump enclosure. A stainless steel screen prevents larger objects such as gravel or large debris from entering the pump, thought the screen is large enough to avoid clogging itself. A must for submerged pond pumps Size: Item is 12" diameter x 18" high.

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Exo Terra Glass Terrarium - 8 in. x 8 in. x 12 in. $36.99 The ExoTerra Glass Terrarium is Ideal for your small reptiles or insects! Twist-locking stainless steel screen cover and closable inlets prevent your little buddies from escaping. Front window ventilation allows them to breathe. Waterproof and raised bottom allows for easy placement of a below substrate heater. Features an attractive 3D rock background for your critters to climb on.

Quiet One Pond Pump 1200 - 296 gph $54.99 This pump can be submersed or run inline. Adjustable flow rate, 1/2" hose adapter outlet and screen intake. Also features an adapter for 1/2" MPTand 20' power cord. Can be mounted vertically or horizontally. Size: 2 3/4" x 3 3/4" x 3" high. Click here for Quiet One flow charts direct from the manufacturer (PDF viewer required).

Quiet One Pond Pump 800 - 220 gph $57.99 Use this pump for a variety of pond applications, from filters to fountains This pump must be submersed in water, it can not be run inline. It has an adjustable flow rate, 1/2" hose adapter outlet, screen intake, and 20' power cord. Size: 2 3/4" x 2 3/8" x 2 5/8" high. Click here for Quiet One flow charts direct from the manufacturer (PDF viewer required).

Simplicity Fluidized Bed Chemical Reactor for 50 to 900 Gallon $31.89 Fluidized reactors are the most efficient and effective way to add chemical filtration to your aquarium. These amazing reactors from Magnavore feature Lock n Load Simplicity for easy use. Just add any type of chemical media to the simple tray: no filter bags are required. No bypass design uses a 300 micron screen to keep even the smallest media contained within. Designed for use in any aquarium sump, a small pump or power head is required for operation. Can be operated in two modes: fluidized up, or upflows through. Designed for any size aquarium 50-900 gallons. Specifications For use in Aquariums from 50-900 gallons Saltwater or Freshwater 1/4 Gal. Reactor Volume 50 to 500 GPH flow rate (requires small pump or powerhead) 1/2 in. barbed fitting 5 to 16 oz. Media Volume 300 micron screen Silicone Gaskets. For additional information, click here for advanced specifications direct from Magnavore. Check out the article Chemical Filtration: Media Reactors written by head marine biologist Dave Acland on That Fish Blog for more information.

Blackworm Keeper $9.99 Anyone who feeds nutritious live blackworms knows they aren't easy to keep, but we've got the solution! The Live Worm Keeper is a convenient storage tray and rinsing screen in one, virtually eliminating loss while rinsing, and keeping the worms fresher longer. The Keeper is 6 inches x 6 inches and 3 inches deep. You can safely store up to six ounces of live worms to feed as needed to your favorite fish! Simply rinse once a day with aged, chilled water and replace with new worms as your stock diminishes.

Pondmaster Pro Hy-Drive Pump - 4800 gph $299.99 This submersible/inline pump is for water gardens, ponds and aquariums. Features include: Pump has a powerful, efficient magnetic/direct drive motor; extremely low energy use; whisper-quiet operation; specifically designed for use with skimmers, waterfalls, aquariums; fish-safe because no oil is used; continuous duty operation; includes extra-large, clog-resistant filter screen; back-flow check valve and 1.5" fittings supplied; extra long 20' power cord with grounded plug; convenient carry handle; uses 280 watts; 2.15 amps, max flow rate: 4750 gph; max head height: 20 feet. Size: Pump is 6" x 6.25" x 15" high.

Hand Held TDS Conductivity Meter $79.99 Trust nothing less than precision when it comes to testing electrical conductivity, TDS and temperature in your aquarium. Spectrapure's handheld meter is the only one available true to the curved scale, as opposed to a linear factor. The temperature compensation coefficients are also matched to the respective scales ensuring greater precision. Each meter can be calibrated digitally to any known value, unlike most testing devices which can only be calibrated to a few. Other features include: Resolution down to 0.1 micro S On-screen temperature display in Celsius or Fahrenheit Auto ranging 0-9990 micro S, 0-8560 ppm Detachable platinum electrodes Low battery indicator Waterproof and floats Uses three 1.5V button cell batteries (included) Includes lanyard and user's guide

Naturalistic Terrarium - 12 in. x 12 in. x 12 in. $47.99 The herp paradise is here with the Zoo Med Naturalistic Terrarium. This unique glass terrarium features a full-front glass opening door with a snap enclosure for easy access and consistent security for your favorite herps. A full stainless steel top is corrosion-free and can accommodate a full-size dome light or terrarium light bar. The special screen top is also designed to allow for maximum UVA and UVB light penetration. Lockable front doors (lock not included) keep your pet safe and sound, while front and top ventilation keeps a constant airflow within the terrarium. Completely watertight base allows your terrarium to hold a pool of water for aquatic species. The terrarium's sides are also raised slightly to allow for under tank heaters. Power cord and airline tubing exit slots include "hold down" clips for added convenience. Treat your herps to a home of style and comfort with the Naturalistic Terrarium.

Naturalistic Terrarium - 12 in. x 12 in. x 18 in. $49.99 The herp paradise is here with the Zoo Med Naturalistic Terrarium. This unique glass terrarium features a full-front glass opening door with a snap enclosure for easy access and consistent security for your favorite herps. A full stainless steel top is corrosion-free and can accommodate a full-size dome light or terrarium light bar. The special screen top is also designed to allow for maximum UVA and UVB light penetration. Lockable front doors (lock not included) keep your pet safe and sound, while front and top ventilation keeps a constant airflow within the terrarium. Completely watertight base allows your terrarium to hold a pool of water for aquatic species. The terrarium's sides are also raised slightly to allow for under tank heaters. Power cord and airline tubing exit slots include "hold down" clips for added convenience. Treat your herps to a home of style and comfort with the Naturalistic Terrarium.

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